-We can ship your puppy using Alaska, Delta, Southwest, United, Continental & American Airlines or one of their companion airlines. We ship to your house using our Flight Nanny Services or to your nearest airport & you will receive puppy within 4 – 5 hours same day after shipping. Our puppies are shipped out of Midland International Airport to any major airport near you. We can also deliver your puppy to your home address using our Flight Nanny Services for an extra $250 if you are far away from the airport. Shipping is very safe & stress free on the puppy. Don’t let distance come between you and your dream puppy. Please see our shipping page for more info on how we ship our puppies.
Immediately After Puppy Arrives:
-As soon as possible after receiving your puppy you need to take your puppy to the Vet for a check-up. We actually recommend taking your puppy to the Vet between 3-10 days after receiving your puppy. This gives the puppy time to adjust to his/her new surroundings.
-Stress is probably the single most contributing factor in Puppy health problems, so keeping stress at a minimum is always best. If the puppy isn’t eating or just doesn’t look or act right then take him/her immediately to the Vet.
-By taking your puppy to the Vet shortly after you receive the puppy benefits, your puppy, you and the breeder. Your puppy benefits because if he/she is sick, treatment can begin immediately and if he/she is healthy the Vet has a baseline to compare with any future visits. You the owner benefits because you now know that you have received a healthy puppy and if the puppy isn’t healthy you have fulfilled your obligation for the health guarantee.
-The breeder benefits by having a satisfied customer knowing that he/she has a healthy puppy and if for some reason the puppy isn’t healthy the breeder can immediately resolve the problem. We would never knowingly sell an unhealthy puppy, but there are times, that congenital defects that aren’t obvious when they are puppies show up when they are as an example 6 months old. If the customer didn’t take the puppy to the Vet when they first received the puppy, the customer might think the breeder knowingly sold them an unhealthy puppy. If the customer takes the puppy to the Vet when they first receive the puppy and the Vet gives the puppy a clean bill of health and 6 months later the puppy develops a congenital health defect hopefully the customer will realize that the breeder wasn’t trying to pull a fast over them.
What daily routine is my puppy use to?
-This section focuses on your puppy’s daily routine that he or she has grown accustomed to starting at about 6 weeks of age until he or she is in your care. Knowing what your puppy is familiar with will help make for a smoother transition to his or her new home, and will help you be more aware of your puppy’s needs at this stage in their development. Though some days are different from others, this is a typical day-in-the-life of your puppy. At this age they are growing so fast that they should eat three times a day to supply their fuel needs. Just remember that YOUNG 8 TO 12 WEEK OLD PUPPIES STILL REQUIRE PLENTY OF SLEEP, PROBABLY 18 HOURS PER DAY PLUS OR MINUS, AND IF THEY DON’T GET SUFFICIENT SLEEP IT CAN CERTAINLY IMPACT THEIR OVERALL HEALTH. Even when your puppy reaches adulthood, you can still expect him/her to sleep over half of the day in a series of short, medium, and long naps.
-7:00 am – 7:30 am: They are ready to get up when they hear us up and around (which is usually around 7am). At this time we feed them their breakfast, fill their water bowl with fresh water, make sure their bedding is clean, and clean their play pen/kennel as necessary.
-7:30 am – 9:30 am: They usually have a bowel movement 20 or so min after they eat. Once they have gone potty, we let them have playtime. They are free to run around our large family room, which works good for us because this is where we spend most of our time while we are home. The floor is all tiled and there is a door to the entrance of the room so they are not able to freely roam carpeted areas of the house that are off limits to them at this age. We socialize them and let them run around and play until they are all tuckered out (generally for an hour or so). If they need to go potty during this playtime, we find they are pretty good to go on their pee pads, although they are still very young and plenty of accidents are going to happen at this age.
-9:30 am – 12:00 pm: By now they have exerted all of their energy and they are pooped (no pun intended)! They usually take at least a two hours nap in their playpen/kennel. Note: your puppy most likely came from a litter with several siblings. When they sleep, they love to snuggle with each other. It can be a big adjustment when they go to their new home and don’t have anyone to snuggle with and to keep them warm. We recommend getting a stuffed animal for him/her to sleep with and to snuggle with. One of our customers told us she found a warm water bottle (found it at Target behind the Pharmacy counter) and the warmth of the water bottle (follow instructions on use) kept her baby comforted all night. Another option may be a warm rice bag. Of course, it doesn’t take them long to adjust; if you have a cry-baby just know it will soon get better and in a few days they should be fine.
-12:00 pm -12:30 pm: This is around the time they wake up and we feed them lunch. We make sure they have plenty of water and that their playpen is clean.
-12:30 pm – 2:30 pm: Once they have gone potty after lunch we let them run around our family room again to burn up their excess energy. We have various soft toys, chew toys, squeaky toys, etc. for them to play with. We (and this includes my 2 year old and my other kids on the weekends or when school is out) snuggle with them on the couch and give them human contact and affection. They are very socialized from all of the attention.
-2:30 pm – 5:30 pm: They are still babies and require a lot of sleep throughout the day. After we put them back in their playpen/kennel they are usually fast asleep for at least another two or three hours. If they don’t sleep as long, we let them run around again to stretch their legs before dinner.
-5:30 pm – 6:00 pm: We usually feed them dinner at this time (we try not to feed any later than 7pm) so that it decreases the need to go potty in the middle of the night. We make sure they still have plenty of fresh water in their bowl.
-6:00 pm – 8:00 pm: After they have gone potty we let them get out their last bit of energy for the day and we give them lots of love, attention, and affection.
-8:00 pm – 9:00 pm/10:00 pm: We usually all snuggle with a pup while watching T.V. before we put them to bed for the night.
-9:00 pm – 10:00 pm: BEDTIME!!! We turn off the lights (leaving a night light burning), give them a kiss goodnight, and they go right to sleep.
-Around 2:00 am: We do a quick check on them when we get up to take care of other business. We change their pee pad if it is soiled and let them continue to sleep. They have slept through the night since they were about 4 weeks old.
-Of course, this is just a sample schedule of what we do. You will have to find what works for you and your family’s schedule. As they get older their needs will change and you will have to adjust their schedule accordingly. Just don’t get alarmed if they seem to want to sleep a lot. Even adult bulldogs, as well as other breeds, sleep over half of the day (generally 12 to 14 hours daily), and your puppy will need more sleep than this (probably approaching or exceeding 18 hours per day. It is normal and is necessary for good health. Fortunately, you can snuggle with them during part of this sleeping time, and it is a great bonding activity for you and your companion.
-Puppies love to play and tend to run after moving feet, or even lie down at your feet when your standing. it’s so easy to accidentally step on the puppy. Please be careful to supervise small children. If a puppy gets hurt too many times he will either become very timid, or aggressive. It’s also important to resist the urge to wake up the puppy to play with him. Like his human counterparts, he will play to exhaustion and could become so tired he will forget to even eat. Do not play aggressively with your puppy. If you want a well behaved, calm puppy don’t play games like tug of war or wrestling with your puppy. Instead, teach him to fetch or sit or come when you ask him. Puppies love training and learning new tricks easily.
How often and how much do I feed my puppy?
-When you receive your new puppy, he/she will be accustomed to eating 3 times a day (morning, noon, and evening). Because we feed more than one puppy at the same time (the rest of their littermates), we put a large bowl full of their puppy food in their kennel and let them eat until they are satisfied. Once all of them walk away from the bowl we know they are done, and we take it away.
-Puppies are changing and growing rapidly, and they need to eat more frequently (at least 3 times a day) to provide all the proper nourishment and nutrition for their rapidly growing bodies. Make sure your puppy always has access to fresh water through out the day.
-Once your puppy is older, you can put your puppy on a twice a day, or even a once a day schedule. Your vet can help you determine the frequency and amount you should be feeding your puppy based on the needs of your puppy, size (over/under weight), activity level, etc. You can either feed him/her on a set schedule (which will help you know when he needs to poop) or you can have food available at all times and let them eat what and when they want, as long as they do not put on excessive weight. If they do put on excessive weight, you will have to monitor what they eat daily.
-There should be a guide on the food bag that tells you how much to feed the puppy at each weight. This is only a rough guide depending on activity level, metabolism, etc., and you may need to decrease or increase the quantity based on how quickly your pup is gaining weight and whether he/she finishes all the food at one time. It’s hard to say exactly how much your puppy will need, but the amounts on the bag will give you an idea of where to start.
-You should use a puppy formula until your puppy is at least 1 year old. While he/she may look like a fully grown dog at 8 or 9 months, and may have actually reached its ultimate adult weight, your puppy is still finishing his/her physical development and bone formation and needs those extra calories and nutrients. When they are 1 year they should transitioned to a high quality, small or medium dog, adult food.
-We now feed all of our new puppies Medium Starter from Royal Canin (available from PetSmart and other reputable pet stores, as well as directly from the company. If you can’t find Medium Starter, Mini Starter or even Maxi Starter will substitute fine, and we couldn’t be happier with the results. We strongly encourage each of our valued clients to use this wonderful puppy chow for at least the first month after you receive your puppy. Puppies are stressed when they are taken from their mothers and litter mates and sent to their new home, so anything that can be done to reduce further stress is important, and this means not abruptly changing their diet.
-If all is going well with your puppy after being in your home for a month or so, you can start transitioning over to another high quality, small or medium dog puppy chow if you choose. If you plan on changing dog food brands we advise making the change gradually so the sudden change does not cause any irritation to the digestive tract, which may result in loose stools and diarrhea. If you decide to change brands of dog food, mix the new brand with your existing brand on a 1×2 ratio. If he/she tolerated this well, mix half and half for a few days. If he/she is still doing well, mix the new brand to the old brand on a 2×1 ratio for a few days. If things are still going well after a few days, switch over completely to the new brand.
-We strongly recommend a high protein (at least 27%), high fat (at least 15%), and high fiber dry puppy chow that has meat as the first ingredient and rice as the main filler. We try to avoid wheat and corn fillers as they can be harder on your puppy’s digestive system and can also make him/her gassy. Costco (Kirkland brand) has a high quality chow meeting our recommendations at a very reasonable price, but you can purchase high quality puppy food from any pet shop, vet’s office, Wal-Mart, IFA, etc. Some puppies are allergic to grains, so a grain free chow should be provided to them, and a few even need to be put on a raw diet.
-If you are feeding your puppy a high quality small or medium adult dog food (if he/she is over 1 year) or puppy chow (if he/she is under a year), you can probably get by without special supplements. However, to be sure that all of our dogs are getting all of the nutrients they need to maintain strong, healthy bodies and good coats, we have started giving our dogs NuVet tablets, and it has made a noticeable improvement in our kennel, especially with our pregnant and whelping females.
-We were told about this supplement from a breeder friend of ours who obtained fantastic results in her kennel by using this supplement every day with each of her dogs. She said she solved several problems (from skin rashes to low milk production in mothers, along with several other nagging health issues) when she started giving each dog in her kennel one of these supplements daily. We believe you and your puppy will also benefit from these outstanding supplements which you can find detailed under “Great Products”. When you use the number provided you can purchase these supplements at a significantly discounted rate versus the retail cost.
Do you require I have my puppy spayed or neutered?
-We do require that every puppy that leaves our home be spayed or neutered by one year of age and proof be sent to us by 13 months of age. Our puppies are intended to be family pets and not every breeder has their breeding dogs as part of their family too. Spaying and neutering also cuts down on the risk of many cancers. We do not believe in early spay and neutering, therefore we do not fix our puppies before they go to their forever homes. Large breed dogs need the hormones to grow their bones and joints correctly. We are very strict about our spay/neuter policy.
If I can no longer keep my dog, can it be returned to you or will you help me rehome him/her?
-Absolutely! A dog that came from us can be returned at any point in its life. We are realistic and know that sometimes life throws us curve-balls and a dog may no longer be able to stay in your home. We do want to know if you are unable to keep your puppy so that we can assist you in the re-homing of that dog. We want to be apart of this process so that we know that the dog is going to a loving home again.
What does the 2 yrs health guarantee consist of?
-Our puppies are guaranteed to be in good health to the best of our knowledge when sold. It is your responsibility to take your puppy to your vet within 4-10 days of receipt. If at this time your vet finds a life threatening condition, and we are notified within that 4-10 days, you, the buyer, can return the puppy for a full refund at your expense. For the extended congenital guarantee, the contract reads that if your dog develops a life threatening congenital deformity or congenital disease severe enough to necessitate euthanasia within the first 2 yrs it will be replaced with an equal value pup as soon as one becomes available. We must be contacted about this before any action is taken. This is another reason that we request the 6 months updates. One photo with update each 6 months is required or this guarantee will be null and void.
Do you allow visitors to see your puppies?
-After a long discussion between us and our vet, we have unfortunately come to the decision that we cannot allow visitors who are not choosing a puppy or picking up their puppy to come see the puppies. Parvo has been out of control this year and we have to do everything we can to protect our puppies. Many times when people come to see the puppies without having already reserved one, they have gone to see other litters as well. If one of those other litters carried this devastating disease, it can be brought to my home and kill my puppies. Pet stores and dog parks are also a place to pick up diseases.
-This would be a terrible for not only the mother dog who is losing her babies, but also for the families who are already in love with their baby as all of our litters are spoken for before they are born. It could also cause us to postpone having any more litters for more than a year. Parvo is almost always fatal in puppies but it can also affect adult dogs making them sick and even causing the dog to abort. We have not even taken our dogs or puppies to the vet clinic for the past two years because sick dogs go to the vet. Our vet is wonderful and she either comes to our home or we go to hers for all vaccinations and exams.
-We hate that we have to do this, but we have to do everything in our power to protect our babies and the families who decide to adopt a puppy from us. We are more than happy to send pictures and videos of where our puppies are kept. Thank you for understanding and hopefully, over the next year or two, if instances of parvo go down, we can again open our home to visitors as that has always been one of the best parts of raising puppies.
What kind of Temperament do our puppies Have?
-Sweet, Kind, and Gentle!
-Our puppies are loving members of our family!
-They are adaptive to many lifestyles and adventures.
-They are easy going, never in too much of a hurry to get anywhere or do anything! (unless you have treat of course!)
-They are not marathon runners. You may find us at an event walking, but never running.
-They are wonderful with kids and blended families.
-They are our shadows. We get up to check the mail or use the restroom, they are right there with us!
Are Bernedoodles good with Cats, other Dogs, and kids?
-Bernedoodles seems to be drawn to children. They are real baby sitter for kids! Generations of children have taken their first toddling steps holding on to this fantastic family dog. The Bernedoodles are super friendly and people oriented. Bernedoodles are fantastic with Cats, Dogs, and children! They don’t have the prey drive other breeds do and there has never been a case of a Bernedoodles attacking a cat as far as I know, however they will play. They absolutely love kids, when our puppies hear or see kids they get so excited and are dead set of running up to them to play! Bernedoodles all around are an amazing family dog and I am convinced they are the best breed ever! Just remember, socialization is key.
-Absolutely! We selectively breed for well-rounded temperaments in our Bernedoodles. This results in a friendly, trustworthy puppies that is a gentle, child-safe dog. We have many adoptive families enjoying their puppies with their children, whose ages range from infancy to teenagers.
Which is better for just a pet – a male or a female?
-In general, there is no significant difference in temperament between male and female dogs. If you are getting a dog for a pet, you will want to have your dog spayed or neutered, which will eliminate most minor differences anyway. Females tend to be smaller than males. Females can damage the grass, males can damage your trees. Males say « I love you, I love you, I love you ». Females tend to say « Love me, Love me, Love me ». Other then that male and female can be both either submissive or dominate, active or quiet. It is the individual dogs temperament and proper training that will determine whether he or she will make suitable pet for your home. Sex is more of a personal preference usually based on looks. Think ahead to what you want your dog to look like 2 years down the road, do you want a strong masculine look or soft feminine features ? In the past have you always had a certain sex ? Do you feel comfortable with that or do you want a change ? If your family companion recently pass away do you want a puppy who when grown is similar in looks or completely different ? Spaying in females tends to be a bit more expensive as it is a major operation. Neutering cost less as it is a simple procedure.
What about vaccinations?
-All our pups receive age appropriate basic puppy vaccines. You’ll be given a health record listing the vaccines and dates of wormings for you to give to your vet.
It’s very important to understand that puppies are not fully immunized until all the shots have been completed in the series through 16 weeks of age. You shouldn’t socialize your pup around strange dogs until then. Be careful when walking them to avoid other dog waste during this time. Please do not take your pup to dog parks or pet stores until it is safe to do so!
Why do you screen for genetic conditions or health related issues?
-Responsible breeders have an inherent responsibility to breed healthy dogs.
DNA markers for canine genetic diseases are being found at a rapid rate.
To improve the genetic health of our breed through better breeding practices.
To try and provide the healthiest puppies with their new families.
How do you assess a pup’s personality?
-For the first few weeks of a pup’s life, I keep a low profile, allowing pups to learn how to be a dog from each other and their mother. We handle pups from day one to get them used to human touch and enhance bonding. Because my kennel is large, and I often have multiple litters at the same time, I have staff that help with this important aspect of puppy care. I make sure to consult with everyone to gather perspectives, as we may see the pups at different times in the day.
-A pup’s personality starts to show at the age of four to five weeks. Like most breeders, I have an intuitive understanding of puppy temperament from observing so many litters over the years. From the age of 5-8 weeks, in particular, I look at where they rank in their litter, how they interact with their mother, their litter-mates, and their caregivers. Do they sit back as you come in, or are they the first to come up, jumping at your hand? When they’re tumbling around with their litter-mates, are they always on the bottom or the top? Are they starting the fights, stopping the fights, or just walking away? The answers to these questions tell me a great deal about their personalities.
-A puppy that is relentlessly picked on by its litter-mates, for example, is likely to have a more submissive nature as an adult and be the omega of the pack, regardless of all the socialization and training it might receive. But that personality will be perfect for one of my clients, perhaps a retired person with a quieter lifestyle. The boldest pup in the litter, on the other hand, will be perfect for an athletic young couple that is constantly on the go. Most of the puppies—like most of my clients—rank somewhere in between.
-While I understood much of this intuitively, I wanted a way to formalize and quantify it. I decided to develop an assessment based on the Volhard Puppy Aptitude Test, or PAT. Jack and Wendy Volhard are internationally recognized experts in dog training, health, and nutrition. They believe that if their test is administered at exactly seven weeks—the point at which the dog’s neurological development is complete, yet it hasn’t learned much about the world—it will accurately predict inherited behavioral tendencies and how the puppy will turn out as an adult.
-Although I have adapted the test slightly to suit my needs, like the Volhards, I assess the following in each puppy: attraction to people; comfort with restraint; startle response; acceptance of social dominance by a person; acceptance of dominance while in a position of no control; willingness to do something for you; and degree of sensitivity to touch, sound, and sight.
-Each element is scored out of 6, with 1 being the boldest, and 6 being the most timid. A pup that scores mostly in the 1-2 range will be quite dominant and best suited to experienced dog owners who know how to lead. A pup that scores mostly in the 5-6 range will be quite independent and shy, and suit a quiet, structured home.
-I average the results across all elements of the test to get an overall ranking for each puppy. Since I began using the test, all of my pups have fallen within the range of about 2.8 to 4.4. The majority fall between 3.2 and 3.8, and I have found pups in that range to be best-suited for my clients. In fact, I work very hard to find the right breeding stock to produce exactly those mdiffabernalabiddle-of-the-road puppies.
-Subtle variations in the scores can make all the difference in matching dogs to owners. A puppy that ranked 3 is likely to be significantly more active and dominant as an adult than the one that ranked 4. Of course, I also factor in everything I’ve learned through close observation of the puppies when making final assessments.
-By the time a pup reaches 7-8 weeks, I have a very good idea of what it’s going to be like as an adult, assuming it gets the proper socialization and training in its new home.
-Training actually plays a critical role in helping a dog achieve its full potential and become your perfect dog. It’s important to establish your leadership the moment a pup enters your care, and maintain it consistently through your life together. Obedience training will improve your bond, and help the puppy integrate into your lifestyle. Even with a well-matched puppy, it takes work to raise a good dog. But it’s so worth it!
What is your health guarantee?
-We guarantee all dogs for two years against hip dysplasia or any hereditary disease. If your dog develops a hereditary disease that makes it unsuitable as a pet or in need of extended veterinary care, please contact me immediately. I am extremely concerned about the health and welfare of each and every pup, and need to be informed so that I can make decisions about future breeding.
-You may choose to provide a note from a board certified veterinarian. I will either replace the dog, or refund half the purchase price of the pup to cover any extended veterinary care. This is your decision.
-Please note that puppies may pick up common parasites, such as Giardia, coccidia, roundworm etc. I do everything in my power to prevent and eliminate these parasites by putting dogs and pups on a strict de-worming program. However, mother dogs tend to be more vulnerable to parasites when they have puppies, and may pass them along to the pups. Depending on the life cycle of the particular parasite, it is possible that a few pups will go home with one. You must have your puppy checked by a vet within 72 hours of taking it home. Please make sure the vet checks for parasites.
How much exercise does a Bernedoodle need?
-Bernedoodles require a moderate amount of exercise. Most will do well with three half-hour walks per day. They’ll enjoying hiking with you in the summer, snowshoeing in the winter, city walks or country runs. Then, when you sit down for a rest, they’ll happily join you for a cuddle. They are very versatile and social dogs. You can take them almost anywhere and they acclimatize well to new situations.
How long do Bernedoodles live?
-As a breed, the Bernedoodle is still young, so there is limited information about longevity. Since I started breeding them in 2003, however, I have seen very few health concerns, and it appears that hybrid vigor is indeed at play in creating a hardy dog that will be with you for a long time. At this point, I can only estimate an average lifespan. I predict that Standard Bernedoodles will live 12-15 years, Mini-Bernedoodles up to 17 years and Tiny Bernedoodles up to 18 years. Usually, the smaller the dog the longer it lives.
What are the grooming requirements for a Bernedoodle?
-Like Poodles, Bernedoodles have hair, not fur, and shedding is minimal or non-existent. That’s the upside. The downside is that it does need to be brushed regularly to prevent matting, and clipped every 8-12 weeks, or so, depending on your preferences and the dog’s activities. If your Bernedoodle is very active outdoors, you will likely find a shorter clip easier to maintain. But many owners enjoy the bonding time of regular brushing and choose to keep their Bernedoodle in a fuller coat.
-Generally speaking, a curly coat is less likely to shed but more likely to become matted if not brushed regularly. Daily brushing will probably be required, as well as professional grooming every 8-12 weeks.
Make sure to be very specific with the groomer as to how you want your dog groomed; most groomers will not have encountered a Bernedoodle and may default to a standard Poodle clip unless directed otherwise. Be specific and show the groomer photos of how you want your dog to look. I’ve included advice for groomers in my book.
You should take your pup to the groomer only after its full set of vaccines (at around 14- 16 weeks). To get them used to the process, ask the groomer not to use clippers. Just have the pup bathed, clean the ears and cut the nails. The next time you visit, you can have the pup clipped.
-Avoid bathing your Bernedoodle too often, as it strips essential oils from the coat.
What are the major differences between tiny, mini and standard Bernedoodles?
-In terms of temperament, Mini and Tiny Bernedoodles may have a slightly higher energy level than the standard, to reflect the same in the Miniature and Toy Poodle parent. However, using calm Poodles, regardless of size, tends to produce docile Bernedoodles.
-As pups, the tiny and mini ’doodles are more outgoing and take a little more work, but as adults they tend to calm down. The nice thing about the mini doodles is they are a great size and you can take them almost anywhere. They are great city/condo dogs. Large dogs cost more to maintain, from food to vet care. Plus, they tend to be shorter-lived.
-Large dogs cost more to maintain, from food to vet care. The larger the dog the longer it takes to mature. Plus, large dogs tend to be shorter-lived
-Beyond that, all sizes of well-bred Bernedoodles have great temperaments, love to play fetch, and hike, are great family dogs and awesome with kids.
-What are the generations of Bernedoodles?
F1 – is a first generation cross, in which the pup is 50 percent Bernese Mountain Dog and 50 percent Poodle. The F1 cross is considered the healthiest, as the parents have the least likelihood of contributing genes for common inheritable diseases.
-F1b – is a backcross in which a Bernedoodle is bred with a Poodle. The puppy is 25 percent Bernese, and 75 per cent Poodle. F1b puppies are the most likely to be non- shedding and allergy-friendly. Some breeders have backcrossed a Bernedoodle with a Bernese, which results in a dog with more of the Bernese traits. I prefer not to breed this backcross as there is a greater likelihood of shedding.
-F2 – is a second-generation cross, in which an F1 Bernedoodle is crossed with another F1 Bernedoodle. If this is done for 7 generations you can apply to register this dog as a purebred. The closer the generations come together the more consistency there will be in the lines, but the genetic problems of the purebreds are more likely to reappear, and hybrids vigor diminishes. Some F2 pups may have an improper coat—not the fleece we love in the ’doodles.
-While Bernedoodles vary in appearance and coat type, an experienced breeder will be able to give you an idea of what the pup will look like as an adult, based on what the parents have produced in the past and what traits they see in the pup.
What coat types do they have?
-The F1 BD will have a thick, fleecy, wavy coat. When allowed to dry naturally, they will have beautiful shaggy look, but when blow dried they will have a super soft fluffy coat. Some can have wavy coats and some can have curly coats. There can be variations in all the generations coats, just as humans can have straight, wavy or curly or super tight curls. The F1b BD will have a super thick, super curly coat. Some think this coat might be a bit easier to maintain and less prone to matting, but again, all can be different. It also depends on the length of coat you chose to have on your dog. The longer coats will need lots of brushing and heavy conditioning to keep the mats down, whereas the shorter length will be easier and less maintenance.
-Do Bernedoodles Shed? Usually not but the first generation does have the possibility of low shedding. Some puppies will shed their puppy coat before getting their adult coat in around 5-8 months of age. F1b’s are super curly and do not shed.